The Diaries of Torres Del Paine (Part 3)

Catapillar Crossings, Torres Del Paine
3/1, Day 2

Happy March. Having lunch on a viewpoint just off the trail that overlooks Grey Glacier. Next time I will pack less and add more nuts to the Sunny Sabado trail mix. That's what's nice about next time. First time's to screw it all up and the next times are to get it right.

Last night, through Gortex and fleece and a cacoon shaped sleeping bag, a Mosquito managed to bite a trail across my left scapula. Ninja Turtle has been assigned the task of Mosquito hunting.


cold morning

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3.5hrs = 5hrs for me, so 5hr = roughly 11km, 7.6 km level trail takes 2.5hrs, roughly 3.15hrs, Italiano closed, Valley Frances one way in & out, most likely injury - muscle strain or being knocked over by wind, 11 X 5.5 to Valley Frances, get to Cuernos by nightfall and backtrack following day, no no only moving forward, eat chocolate so heavy, water refill in approx 20minutes, take a break then, Expedition Team - check, Monkey - check.

Calculations. I've forgotten to look up. These concerns about the what-ifs and whens and where-tos. I've forgotten about the catapillars, the flowing creeks, and sunshine.

It's decided -- I don't care if do the W, the U, or the slanted line, if I stay in the park 1 or 8 days -- I'm going to enjoy the catapillar crossings.



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waterfall refills








weather chart near Pehoe Lake

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The wind howls in spurts. It makes the zippers in the tent jingle. I'm writing with gloved fingers and drinking hot mint tea. Earlier, in a wooden room where campers used their stoves protected from the strong winds, I met a French couple who have been travelling the world for nearly a year. They shared their tattered bag of sandwich bread to others at the table, light reflecting off their kind eyes.

This evening’s reading – water. Without water, life expectancy is measured at 2.5days in 120°F and 12 days in 70°F.


Campgrounds beaneath the massive granite peaks of Cerro Paine Grande (approx 10,000 feet).


To prevent a tent-kite episode, big rocks were placed in and on the tent at all times until constructed.